Rome in December: All you need to know to plan your trip, escape crowds and have a great time

by marta

All you need to know for a trip to Rome in December. What to expect from the weather, what to pack and all you need to know about Rome at Christmas.

December is a wonderful month to visit Rome.

I am from Rome and love my city in all seasons but December has a special place in my heart.

At this time, the weather is a little cold but it is also often bright and crisp, city life is in full swing, offering exhibitions, theater and concert galore and the city has a wonderful local feel.

It is the best time to see Rome as it really is: a mix of tourism but also real life and tons of personality!

Also, the lead up to the Christmas festivities means great shopping opportunities and some seasonal activities, which add an extra layer of fun.

However, Rome in December can also be frustrating for visitors, especially as we get to the actual Christmas season, between Charismas eve and the 6th of January.

While the beginning of the month is usually quiet and mostly low season, once you hit Christmas weeks things change.

Rome at Christmas is wonderful but really jam packed with people.

The experience of Rome you will have if you came in early December or over the Christmas weeks is very different: in this guide, I give an overview of what to expect during December in Rome.

You can find more specific information about Christmas festivities in Rome in my article about Rome at Christmas

This article is part of our series ‘the best time to visit Rome‘ – 12 monthly guides to the Eternal City.

Important: For official information and travel advisory that may affect your ability to enter Italy, please refer to your Government travel advisory. Check here for official info if traveling from USCanadaUKIrelandAustraliaNew Zealand.

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Is Rome busy in December? How to escape the Christmas crowds – tips by a local

Rome is busy during part of December, namely the weekend of the 8th of December (national holiday) and the days between Christmas and New Years.

To escape the crowds, I recommend to:

If you can, come before the 25 – 31 December time, as this is when most people travel

If you come at the busiest time, make sure you give yourself time to see beyond the top sites.

Many visitors only see the top sites, without realising that Rome is more than a few famous spots: the specificity of Rome is that the city developed over thousands of years and it is therefore more than the sum of its parts.

If you give yourself the time to walk between spots and explore a little beyond the famous spots (sometimes a few hundred meters or turning a corner is enough!) you’ll find Rome to have many wonderful pockets of quiet.

Consider staying a little out of the center: even just 10/15 mins by bus out of the center will allow to completely escape crowds yet still reach the center easily. Consider areas such as Prati or Trieste Salario.

Book tickets in advance but don’t worry about expensive skip the line options.

In Rome, big attractions have times tickets: this means that you have an allocated time of entry and do not need to queue at the ticket office.

This is the same as what tour operators offer: skip the line only means you buy ahead – do not pay more for hte privilege as there is no need to! Only book a tour if you want a guide.

What to book ahead in December in Rome

Due to crowds, I recommend you book well ahead anything that is a must for you.

My favourite tours and experience at these time are:

>>> The Colosseum Attic, which is limited in availability and means you see the top floor of the Colosseum almost alone! From the Colosseum website https://ticketing.colosseo.it

>>> The Vatican Museums, with a guide. I specifically recommend this tour by LivTour as is allows early access and a quieter experience.

>>> The Borghese Gallery, one of my favorite museums in the world. Learn how to get tickets here

>>> This fun food tour (ask for guide AJ!) if you love to learn fact about food as well as tasting as you

If you have kids, I recommend to explore Rome with a fun Golf Cart Tour which allows to zoom around the city without having to walk much.

Booking restaurants in Rome in December

I recommend to book restaurants for Christmas Eve dinner, Christmas Day Lunch and dinner on the 31st of December.

I also recommend booking restaurants if you have specific places in mind or places that are known to international tourism.

Aside from these situations, you do not need to book meals in Rome as the options are infinite and the average quality extremely high.

You can find here >>> my guide to Rome for foodies with my favorite restaurants in Rome.

Is Rome very Christmassy in December?

One of the most common questions I receive about Rome in December is how Christmassy Rome gets in the holiday season and whether it is a good destination for a Christmas experience.

The answer to this question is a little more complex than a yes / no as it depends on expectations.

In terms of decorations, Rome does get some nice Christmas lights, Christmas trees in main piazzas and there are some Christmas markets with seasonal stalls.

They are pretty and add what I like to call a ‘dusting’ of Christmas spirit to the place.

However, Rome does not turn into a Hallmark movie style place so you will not find the same immersive Christmas atmosphere you’ll have in Germany (or the US) or parts of Europe where Christmas markets originate from.

What you do however find in Rome in December is the celebration of Christmas in churches and many open air space.

As you explore Rome in December, you have the opportunity to see Nativity scenes are some are absolutely stunning!

For instance St Peter’s Square always have an amazing one that is worth seeing.

Weather in Rome in December

December is a winter month in Rome.

The weather in December in Rome is usually cold and dry, with bright sky and the occasional rainy day.

The average temperature in Rome in December is 9C/49F with a range from 15C/59F to 4C/39F degrees, which means you want to wear a sweater and a good coat, scarf and closed shoes, although you are unlikely to be unpleasantly cold.

Usually, you have about 9 days of rain in Rome in December although recent weather patterns are making this a lot harder to predict. Overall, however, being ready for rainy days is important.

In December, you can expect short daylight hours and long evenings, so this month is ideal for visitors who want to enjoy museums and restaurants more than the outdoors.

Despite the short hours of daylight however, December can be an exceptionally bright month.

Some of my favorite photos of Rome were taken in crystal clear December blue sky days!

Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City, in December, with tall decorated Christmas tree in front of St Peter's Basilica
See what I mean about the blue sky?

What to wear in Rome in December

December is chilly in Rome, rather than cold, but it can be humid so the best clothing for Rome at this time is full winter attire.

Find here >>> my complete packing list for Rome in December.

If you are traveling to Rome in December, it is important to pack:

  • Good walking shoes (find here >>> my list of recommended shoes for Rome), closed-toe and waterproof. I recommend two pairs should one get soaked and not dry overnight: sneakers and ankle boots or full boots work well in this season. You do not need lined boots.
  • Socks and/or tights
  • Long trousers/pants
  • Short sleeve tops (for layering)
  • Long sleeve tops
  • Cardigan / woolen sweater
  • Winter coat
  • Scarf, gloves, hat (Rome is humid and feels much colder than the temperature suggests)
  • Small umbrella
  • You do not usually need a thermal layer
  • A nice outfit if visiting over the Christmas season and planning on a nice dinner or night out. Rome is not overly dressy but a sparkly top for women and a blazer and shirt for men will make you feel comfortable if dining out during the festive season.

Festivities in December in Rome: need to know

December is an important month in Rome and even more in the Vatican City so it is important to be aware of closures and reduced opening hours that may affect museums, attractions, shops and restaurants.

Important dates to know for visiting Rome in December:

8th December (Immaculate Conception Day): this is a Catholic festivity and a date that marks the beginning of the festivities.

This is a day off for locals and it is usually the day when Christmas trees get decorated.

The most impressive one is in Piazza St Pietro (St Peter’s Square) while the one in Piazza Venezia has seen mixed fortunes (see below!)

Shops are not usually closed on this day in the city center but you may find smaller businesses shut as this is traditionally a family day

Vatican City decorated for Christmas

24th December (Christmas eve): Christmas eve is a big deal in Rome.

This is when families gather for a pre-Christmas dinner and when many go to midnight mass.

On the 24th of December shops do close early and reservations for dinner are necessary.

In many cases, restaurants will have set menus for Christmas dinner and prices may be higher than normal: make sure you plan for this meal in advance.

25th December (Christmas day): Christmas in Rome is traditionally a family and church day and this affects opening of attractions and shops significantly.

This is one of the very few days of the year when the Colosseum is closed (good to know: it is open for part of the 24th and 31st), the Vatican is closed (the museums, not the piazza nor the basilica) and also the Borghese Gallery

26th December (St Stephen’s day). The 26th of December is still a holiday for Italians however, many attractions open again this day so you won’t notice as much as Christmas day.

The big exception are the Vatican museums, closed on this day.

31st December (New Year’s eve): New years eve is a normal working day for most of Rome and this means it doesn’t impact much on your sightseeing.

However, it may impact on your dinner plans as many restaurants do not offer a normal service and may require advance booking and provide a special menu.

Make sure you book one you are happy with well in advance.

Traditional celebrations and gathering happen in Piazza del Popolo (careful, it gets very crowded)

Photo collage with St Peter basiclica and Trevi fountain with overlay text 'What to expect in Rome in December'

The best things to do in Rome in December

December in Rome is an ok time for sightseeing but changeable weather will call for a mix of outdoor and indoor attractions.

Places I recommend you visit in December are:

Visit the Colosseum in December

If you get a slot in the middle of the day, a visit to the Colosseum in December can be a lovely idea.

Advance booking is mandatory and you can choose the date and time of your visit: in winter, I recommend you try secure a slot in the late morning (after 11 am) or early afternoon, to maximise the pleasant heat of the sun.

The photo below is taken by the ‘attico’ of the Colosseum at the end of December, at about lunchtime!

You can read here >> my guide about how to visit the Colosseum and ticket recommendations

View from the attico of the Colosseum
The Iconic, the legendary Coliseum of Rome, Italy on christmas

The best value tickets for visiting the Colosseum are issued by the Colosseum itself and you can buy them here: https://ticketing.colosseo.it

They offer several types of visit and the quality is high however, there is no flexibility with their bookings so I recommend you book only once you are sure the time and date is suitable.

If you need more flexibility, I recommend you check out our guide to the best Colosseum tickets here.

If visiting the Colosseum in December, especially towards the end of the month, wrap up as it can get chilly, especially if you go early in the morning or late in the afternoon/night.

The Colosseum ticket included access also to the Roman Forum and the Palatine hill.

I adore both the Forum and the Palatine however, especially the Palatine can very cold this time of the year.

I recommend visiting on a warmer day, in the hottest hours of the day or, at least, if well wrapped up!

You can find my guide to visiting the Roman Forum here.

Visit the Vatican in December

I cannot think of a better time to visit the Vatican than Christmas, especially the weeks leading up to Christmas day.

St Peters’ square in December hosts a massive tree and Nativity scene, different every year, and it is always a magical, wonderful and touching sight (even if you don’t have a religious background).

If you are going to Rome in early December this is also a good time to visit the museums.

The same cannot be said for the last week of the month: the crowds at this time are insane! Stick with the piazza and basilica only for sanity.

Make sure you get tickets in advance as there is no such thing as a truly quiet day there!

If planning a visit to the Vatican, I recommend you check out our free guides to the area:

All you need to know to plan a visit to the Vatican at Christmas

Tips for visiting St Peter basilica + highlights

How to visit the Vatican Gardens

What to see in Vatican City beside the museums

ST Peter basilica with fountain in front

Explore Rome main piazzas with Christmas trees

All Rome main piazzas can be visited this time if the year.

Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps), Piazza Venezia, and PIazza Navona in particular get lovely Christmas trees and PIazza Navona even hosts a Christmas market with a carousel!

This is a fabulous time to visit and take in the beauty of the piazzas and the seasonal atmosphere.

Also check out smaller squares such as Piazza Mattei and Piazza Mincio for a taste of local life.

In December, Rome’s local life is in full swing so as soon as you leave the most popular areas you will see the city’s living and breathing heart.

Visit Rome churches and their nativity scenes

Visiting Rome churches is always a good idea but never as good as over Christmas, an exceptionally joyful and important time for Catholicism.

During the weeks leading up to Christmas, you will find churches regularly celebrating mass and services.

These may impact your ability to visit however, there are so many churches in Rome, if you cannot get into one, you will get into the next!

Some of the many churches worth seeking out are San Luigi dei Francesi (with a famous Caravaggio), San Pietro in Vincoli (with Michelangelo’s Moses), Santa Prassede (incredible mosaics), Santa Maria della Vittoria and Santa Maria in Trastevere, but the list could go on!

Many churches also display wonderful nativity scenes: one worth seeking out in the center is the one in Sant’Eustachio: absolutely wonderful!

You can find my list of the most beautiful churches in Rome here.

Nativity scene in sant'eustachio rome

See the Borghese Gallery

The Borghese Gallery is indoors and perfect for a deep dive into art on a cold day.

The Gallery houses masterpieces by Bernini, Canova, Raffaello and many other art masters and it is one of the most beautiful museums in the world.

You can find info on how to visit the Borghese Gallery and best tickets here

Visit Piazza Navona and its Christmas market

Piazza Navona looks very different depending when in December you go visit.

At the beginning of the month, the square is a stunning vision of sculptor perfections, with masterpieces by Bernini and Borromini taking center stage in this old imperial stadium

In the second part of the month however, Piazza Navona hosts a Christmas market and fills up with stalls selling knick- knacks.

The market doesn’t compare in beauty and size with those you get in Germany or the Dolomites however, it is atmospheric and unique because of its’ incredible backdrop! Definitely worth coming here if in Rome in December.

Good to know! You can find lovely markets in Rome if you venture outside of the center and join more local events. You can find my selection of nice Christmas markets in Rome here

PIazza Navona Christmas market (send half of December)

Visit Nero’s Domus Aurea

The Domus Aurea is the lavish palace of Emperor Nero.

Build it in the I century AD as an over-the-top mansion, the Domus is now an archaeological underground dig but it is wonderful and incredibly interesting to visit.

The Domus is now underground and a wonderful, unique place to spend a cold December afternoon.

You can read my guide to the Domus Aurea and tips for visiting here.

ancient columns inside the Domus Aurea in Rome

Visit Rome’s catacombs

The catacombs of Rome are an extensive network of underground tunnels dating back to early Christian times.

The tunnels are ancient cemeteries and they are very interesting to visit in terms of experience (you find yourself many meters under Rome!) and educational value.

You can only access the catacombs with a guide and the information and stories they share are unique!

In December, the catacombs are also a good place to escape the rain: just make sure you wrap up as they are rather cold!

Among the many, I love the catacombs of St Callistus the most. Get tickets here.

Warm-up in a Rome enoteca (wine bar)

Rome may conjure up ideas of apertitivo in the piazza but in December, this is hardly ever a reality.

In Rome in December what you really want to do is warm in up in a cozy interior and this happens nowhere better than in a local enoteca, Rome’s wine bars.

Enoteche in Rome come in all shapes and sized and usually are small establishments with small tables, dark wood decor and warming food.

Go shopping

Hoping for a spot of shopping pre-Christmas?

Rome will not disappoint: whether you are looking for Rome souvenirs, gifts for Rome lovers, fashion items or anything really, Rome has something for you.

You can find my guide to the best shopping in Rome here.

Have a hot chocolate at Rome’s Chocolate Factory Cafe

A wonderful way to warm up in Rome in December is with a cup of hot chocolate.

The best place for it is the wonderful SAID, Rome’s Chocolate Factory which is delicious and very pretty too!

Sweets and chocolate creations in Rome's chocolate factory

Go to a concert in the Auditorium

The Auditorium has a great program of concerts and it is social in December as it also hosts Christmas events that make this beautiful building even more special in this season.

You can find here here >> The Auditorium Official site and event calendar

Go on a food tour or cooking class

Rome’s tasty and earthy food goes exceptionally well with the change of season. This is a wonderful time of year to take a food tour and taste it all!

These are food tours worth considering:

December in Rome is also a great time to learn to cook!

A fantastic class I can recommend is this pasta making class which is well priced, excellent in quality and also teaches you tiramisu (super easy to then make at home too!

When you are in Rome in December, you must eat all that glorious Roman food and of course the more traditional Italian Christmas food! In this season I recommend:

  • Carbonara: warming and tasting and perfect for the slightly cooler weather of this season
  • Trippa, warming dish for the adventurous
  • Suppli, fried balls of rice with a melting mozzarella heart, a traditional Rome appetizer
  • Pizza, perfect all year round: find here >>> where to eat the best pizza in Rome
  • Panettone: originally from Milan, this is Italy’s most distinctive Christmas sweet
  • Pandoro: the big ‘rival’ of Panettone, the country is divided between those who love one over the other and those of a different opinion! Taste both and the pick a side for a real Italian food experience
  • Panforte: another Christmas favorite, this is an Italian Christmas cake of fruit and nuts
  • Ricciarelli: chewy Italian almond cookies especially popular at Christmas
  • And what if you want gelato? You still can! While you want to tuck in a little less than in summer, gelato is available all year round and you won’t stand out if you order one!

Go to an exhibition

Rome always have many exhibitions going on at any given time and December is a great time for museum going.

You can find here an up to date calendar of Rome events in December (In Italian, but the names and location are reasonably universal)

December in Rome with kids

December in Rome with kids can be fun but only if you come over Christmas (or immediately before), when the festive spirit compensates for the limited choice of indoor options.

However, there are some child friendly things to do in Rome in December that can be lovely add ons to the more standard visits and tours.

You can find here >>> a complete list of things to do in Rome with kids.

Take a pizza class

A fun, hands on activity for this that keeps you inside, entertained and well fed is a family pizza class. We took one with our kids one cold say in the winter and it was lots of fun.

You can book the same experience here

Go to Explora

Explora is Rome’s children museum and it is a wonderful place to explore with kids or if you are in Rome with a toddler. In December, this is an exceptionally handy place to know for a rainy day or any time the weather doesn’t seem suitable for extended hours in the park.

Explora children museum of Romereview
This is the water and mechanics area of Explora children museum of Rome

Go to a child friendly museum

While Rome only has one museum that is just for children, it also has several art museums that are children friendly.

Places my kids love are:

  • Museum if Illusions
  • Ikono Romę interactive Museum
  • Leonardo Exhibition
  • Museum of Light

You can find a selection of those we enjoy the most as a family here.

Go to the free 100 Nativity scenes exhibition

St Peter’s square hosts a lovely free exhibition with 100 nativity scenes from around the world!

The exhibition doesn’t take long to see, you do not need to book and it is lovely: it shows the many different way the story of the nativity is represented in different parts of the world – absolutely fascinating!

Check out the Christmas Trees

Christmas trees make their appearance in Rome in early December and the process can be fun for kids to see (I know my toddler was enchanted by the big machinery involved!)

The best one to see is the tree in St Peter’s Square but you will also find decorated trees in Piazza Venezia, near the Colosseum (this year this may be disrupted by current work going on in the area) and in other Rome piazzas.

Not all Christmas trees are as good as one another.

Notoriously, a couple of years ago Piazza Venezia had one that was so unhappy and skinny, Romans called it ‘spelacchio’ (= scraggy)! Lately it has been distinctly less scraggy but we always go check it out and the story of spelacchio is always a hit with my two!

Go ice skating

A lovely ice rink pops up at the auditorium over Christmas: it is contained and beautiful, especially later in the afternoon with the lights shining over its peculiar structure.

A wonderful Christmas activity in Rome for kids!

I hope you enjoyed this overview of Rome in December. Safe travels! 

This post was first published in 2019 and gets updated annually. Latest updates in 2021, 2022, 2023 and 2024

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